To Live

October 26, 2009


As I have claimed before, I think Chinese filmmaker Zhang Yimou is an absolute genius in his craft; pretty much everything I have seen of his I have enjoyed thoroughly. Now, I wouldn’t say that I have a great affection for Chinese cinema as a whole but I have always had a great deal of respect for Zhang Yimou. Anyways, for many moons now I have been trying to find what many have claimed to be his greatest film To Live (as it loosely translates into English) and luckily Alice Ma was able to find me a copy with English subtitles (which has been the main problem!) So last night I was finally able to watch this movie and absolutely loved it! The story follows the life of one family as it travels through the end of the last dynasty, then through Mao’s rebellion, The Great Leap Forward and finally the Cultural Revolution. To say this is a sad story is an understatement, but is a fascinating insight into what actually happened during those times in Chinese history. Simply put, if you can get a copy of it give it a watch!!

Progression

October 19, 2009

mahjong

Well, I would say Kristin and I (along with the Brown’s) have upped the ante in our Mahjong intake and are trying to average playing two times a month now - and let me tell you we are all loving it! Last night all of us settled down and delved into a game where Alice’s Mom (or Lao Lao as she is known to us) played with us and taught us through the school of hard knocks. Lao Lao is a wiz at the game and it was fantastic to learn from her as best we could. I would say very confidently that all of our skills are great improving but still work must be done. I’m not sure how to describe it but once this game seeps into your pores it just won’t let you go - the Engleson’s are officially Mahjong addicts!

60 Years

October 2, 2009

Once again the Chinese have outdone themselves when it comes to putting on a show. October 1st, 2009 was the 60th anniversary of the People’s Republic of China (or the Communist era) and in true Chinese fashion they put on a show that left your head shaking in disbelief; simply put it was awe inspiring. Lasting some 3 hours long, Beijing was the scene of a stunning old-school communist parade that deployed the entire Chinese military arsenal (that took 1.5 hours) and then finished off with spectacular floats and marching bands all highlighting the different aspects of Chinese society. My guess is that 300-400 thousand people were involved with this production and I am almost certain every single one of the 1.4 billion citizens were glued to the television set watching it. This parade reminded me of the military precision and strength of the German’s during World War II (at least from the images I have seen from that time) and had that vivid communist feel of the old Soviet parades during the Cold War. To say that I was moved by this parade would be a complete understatement. At times I was frightened, impressed, intimidated, entertained, mesmerized and, strangely, even a little bit proud. Being here live and watching it in real time was a very surreal experience because it is such a contrast to what I grew up with in Canada. When you look at the rows of people every single one of them was the same height and all moved in complete unison - the smallest of details were done to a tee. I just can’t believe how perfect everything was about the parade and after all the dust has settled, the Chinese made a hell of a statement to their citizens and the rest of the world about who they are as a country and what they are capable of. Give this thing a watch!

English Muffins

September 9, 2009

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Since I am on a little rant here about some of the issues of living in China, let me tell you all another story detailing the complexities of life here in the Middle Kingdom - and that is, of course, the purchasing of english muffins for my eggs benedict. Now I suppose the mere fact that we have english muffins in China is a treat in itself, but man-oh-man, the process of buying the ones that are here is of epic proportions! What I am about to tell you is the exact same chain of events that happens to me everytime - here it goes: First, I must get into a zen-like trance in order to mentally prepare for challenge that lies ahead, I then get on my motorized bicycle and ride down to our local McDonald’s. Once inside, I quickly sneak over to the far right side of the counter and talk to the managers in light green shirts (which also happens to be the exact same people for the past two years!) and I ask to buy 4 pieces of morning bread - zhaoshan mianbao - and it is from this precise moment where the madness begins. The manager will ask other workers what my request is, a small huddle will ensue and then from there one worker with minimal English skills will emerge. I then ask again (in English) for the morning bread, she will pause, scratch her head and then re-ask the manager (in Chinese) as to what I am talking about - it is also usually around this time that a mass curiosity of what I am doing hits the entire restaurant and everyone begins to stare at me. Once my request is figured out I immediately get told meiyou - or “no have” as it translates - which is then accompanied with the customary wave-off to my face. Because I have done this many times before I remind them that they do, in fact, have this type of bread and I ask again - the wave-off is repeated in the hopes that I will leave them alone. I then ask for the foreigner brochure that shows the menu and do my best to re-explain to them exactly what it is I want. By now the manager has left and has officially assigned a lower echelon employee to deal with me; and from here I succeed in detailing my wish to the point where it is completely undersood what it is I want; but I then quickly get my third wave-off - meiyou. Now slightly frustrated, I again explain to them that I have come in to this store many times and have purchased english muffins successfully and simply wish to do the same again right now. Sensing my frustration, the managers now come back onto the scene, talk to the person who has been assigned to me, they all deliberate in back of the kitchen far away from the freak show I have created and then come back and say they can do it. Success! This process is usually 30 minutes and happens everytime-single-time. So, the next time you are eating eggs benedict with english muffins that you have purchased at your local grocery store just think of what it takes to do the same in the Middle Kingdom - that is life in China to a tee!

China!

September 8, 2009

old china

Our Ayi quits, then she doesn’t. For the life of me I will never fully understand how this system works over here in China. I have lived in this country for six and a half years and attempting to understand its inner workings and deal with the people can still perplex me at times. I realize that my lack of understanding (or language skills) is part of the problem, but geez, co-existing over here can sometimes be enough to want to rip your hair out - and that is certainly how I feel today. In the end all will be well in our household and we will all continue to pretend that nothing happened, but for the life of me I do not understand why it had to happen in the first place. China!

Damn Firewall!!

September 3, 2009

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Ladies and gentlemen, I am terribly sorry for the long delay in posts but true to form the Great Firewall of China is proving to be a giant pain in the ass! The level of fear the Chinese government continues to have with internet sites is beyond ridiculous and doing simple chores on your computer over here requires a great deal of patience and a lot of savvy with proxy things and all that kind of crap - to which I have very little. Anyways, slowly we are getting everything adjusted and will be ready to continue at our normal pace very soon. Stay with us folks!

Uighur Uprising

July 11, 2009

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I have been paying very close attention to the news out of western China and find the current problem in Xinjiang province to be very disheartening and frustrating. Now, I obviously do not know all of the events that occurred and am certainly no expert on this situation, but, I have a few strong opinions on the matter. Are the Uighur people innocent in this whole may lay? No. But did the Chinese government turn the situation into something worse? That is certainly my opinion. The truth lies somewhere in the middle; but what I find most frustrating is the fact that I (or any of us) can not believe any of the reports that we are hearing/reading in the news - nothing! Living in China and seeing how their media operates has taught me one thing: their job is to promote and enhance the ideals of the Communist party, period; therefore, I believe nothing that I read and none of us will ever know what actually happened. The government will also ensure that all other media sources are not granted access into Xinjiang thus continuing the hazy fog that is this current uprising. This makes me sad because I have very strong feelings towards the Uighurs and sympathize for them a great deal. Just like every country, China has a few internal fires that need dousing (and Xinjiang has been ongoing), but until the Communist government can learn to negotiate properly they will always have these escalated problems and will continue to solidify the dicey global reputation they already have. Here’s hoping this current situation in Xinjiang gets settled properly.

Getting There…

June 28, 2009

mahjong

Indulged in another game of Mahjong last night and I have to admit the game is starting to sink a little deeper into my subconscious. The basic principle of the game I get, strategy is sorely lacking, subtle rules of how to begin a game still totally elude me. I enjoy the game very much and can see why it such a huge deal in this country. I am still a long ways away from testing my skills with the oldtimers down at the Mahjong parlour, but I am working on it! The big winner last night was our very own Kristin Elaine who took home a grand total of 22 jiao (.00000072 cents Canadian) while Darren came in dead last with a measly 3 jiao.

Mahjong

June 12, 2009

mahjong

Well, tonight will be the second coming of my goal to learn the game of Mahjong. After a lovely meal, Darren and Alice will be swinging by our house where we will then embroil ourselves in a cut throat battle of China’s favorite game. Now, if you have never played Mahjong you may not fully understand the complexity of its rules - the game itself if fairly straightforward - but the rules and customs surrounding it are very difficult; so I am expecting to once again be very confused tonight. My goal is to get competent enough to go to the Mahjong parlour downstairs one day before I leave and put some cash on the line. Stay tuned for the results…

Complete!

May 3, 2009

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Team Yong Jiu (my team) top left

Whew! Well, I am back from a crazy May holiday. Lots has happened and there is so much to tell: Tour de Dandong highlights and my family’s adventures in Dalian and Beijing. This very second I am dead tired and just need some rest - but please stay tuned, I will give the skinny on all once pictures and memoirs have been processed.

For the Marshall’s perspective on the race click here for a sneak peak…

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Day 3

April 23, 2009

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Day 3 should be a foggy, bijiu haze of a morning and not a lot of fun, but, the memories of the previous night should put us in good spirits to begin our final day. The final stage to Dandong is not an easy one and should prove to be a very long day. For the most part, the teams will travel the 201 into Donggang and then veer off down a country road and ride along a 30 kilometer stretch of barbwire fence that separates China and North Korea. Here the scenery will turn from corn harvest images to that of boats and anything else fishing. I can’t wait to feel what it will be like to see the outskirts of Dandong and finally reach our goal. This is it folks, the Tour de Dandong is upon us!!

Day 3

0 km – Mu Er Shan village

8 km – Li Zi Fang – (gas station) – Turn right onto the 201

15 km – gas station

17 km – gas station

21 km – gas station

23 km – gas station

25 km – gas station

27 km – Toll Booth – go to the far right and drive right on through!

30 km – Huang Tu Kan village – (gas station)

32 km – gas station

34 km – gas station

40 km – gas station

41 km – gas station

51 km – Beijing Zi village – (gas station)

53 km – gas station

57 km – gas station

63 km – gas station

69 km – gas station – Around this point begin to look for blur road sign to Dong Gang.

71 km – gas station – veer right into Dong Gang city center (Major city)

72 km – Dong Gang – once in Dong Gang road will split – veer left

74 km – Large Traffic circle – go straight

76 km – Turn off to Jin Gang Lu – Turn right
- Look for: Small lumber yard to your left
- Green sign with red arrow (right hand side of the road)
- Neon yellow phone booth (right hand side)

76.3 km – Look for two large cement pillars in the middle of the road of Jin Gang Lu

77 km – Huang Hai Da Jie – Turn Left and go straight – first major intersection off Jin Gang Lu. This large road will dissipate into a country road.

80 km – gas station

81 km – An Kang village

83 km – Yan Jiang Lu – Turn left and follow this country road all the way into Dandong – look for lots of old fishing boats off to the right.

86 km – gas station

93 km – Many old wooden boats; follow the cement pillared barb-wired fence separating China and North Korea.

113 km – gas station

125 km – DANDONG!!

Once in Dandong, the official finish line will be the Broken Bridge. All competitors must get their entire team to this finishing point for the race to be completed.

Day 2

April 22, 2009

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After our glorious night stay at the Cheng Zi Tan bathhouse, we will rise bright and early ready to attack our biggest day of the journey: 125 kilometers to the small village of Mu Er Shan. On this day we will be continuing our path down the 201 highway and straying off on many country roads as well. The real charm of Day 2 will be our lodgings - on this evening we have negotiated the opportunity to stay in 5 local village hutongs and have them prepare a feast for the ages. They will be offing a 200 kg pig for us and preparing a wide variety of dishes from that. I foresee a lot of bijiu and good old fashioned hearty cheer amongst the Canadians and Chinese; and I now it will be a very memorable night!

Day 2

0 km - Cheng Zi Tan

4 km – gas station

10 km – gas station

14 km – Turn-off to Cheng Shan. Look for large brown road sign over the road that indicates Cheng Shan – Turn left down country road.

19 km - Cheng Shan village – (gas station)

42 km – T-intersection – turn right to Zhuang He

48 km – gas station

54 km – gas station

61 km – Zhuang He (major city) – gas stations – Be sure you look for the road signs that indicate where highway 201 is; and be very careful of traffic!

65 km – gas station

68 km – gas station

72 km – gas station

76 km – gas station

82 km – gas station

86 km – gas station

96 km – Qing Dui village – (gas station)

103 km – gas station

108 km – gas station

113 km – Li Zi Fang village – (gas station)
- Turn right down country road at first intersection in Li Zi Fang
- At intersection look for: Small China Post building left-side kitty corner
- Large red Coca-Cola sign on immediate right side
- Red “West Lake” sign on left hand side

125 km – Mu Er Shan Village - Day 2 concludes.

Day 1

April 20, 2009

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Day 1 will begin at 4:00pm Saturday, April 25th at the Big Ox next to the ocean beach in Manjiatan. We have the late start because we work that day and many involved in the trip have their Masters program begin on Tuesday the 28th, so our schedule is very tight; therefore, our first day will be a 90 kilometer sprint (kind of) to the township of Cheng Zi Tan. Barring any major problems I foresee this leg taking 3.5-4 hours, which means some of the journey will have to be done in the dark. This is not something I wanted, but our schedule has handcuffed us somewhat. In Cheng Zi Tan we have booked to take over a local bathhouse for 20 yuan a night/person and all 35 competitors and support staff will stay there the night.

Here is what the competitors will have to use to find and organize their way:

Day 1

0 km - Manjiatan (Ox by the Ocean)

8.5 km - Song Jia village - (gas station) – T-intersection, turn left and go straight

12 km - De Sheng village - (gas station) - start to look for giant silver ball (Main Street/Science World) on the left-hand side – if you see it keep going!

16 km - Blue Road sign indicating the 201 road - shortly after turn right and go straight.

20 km - Veer right to go onto the 201 – Follow the 201 until Cheng Zi Tan

20 km - Kan Chang village - (gas station)

23 km – gas station

29 km – gas station

33 km - Hua Jia village – (gas station)

42 km – gas station

50 km – gas station

61 km – gas station

65 km – gas station

72 km – gas station

84 km – gas station

90 km - Cheng Zi Tan – (gas station) - This will be the end point of day 1.

Tour de Dandong

April 19, 2009

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The Race

The Tour de Dandong in its original conception is a team orientated motorized bicycle journey to the far reaches of eastern China and the North Korean border. The idea is to put ourselves on the line against the elements that China - and these bikes! - has to offer in order to reach the infamous Yalu River. While the race aspect is a focal point of what we are doing, it is not (and never was) the key point of our going; the journey itself is the focus and I want everyone to enjoy the process of getting to Dandong the most. Yes, there will be a winner recorded but the real race is getting your full team to the finish line and having a few laughs along the way.

Weather Conditions

Through rain, sleet or snow we will all charge forth to Dandong!

Lei Feng

Lei Feng points are awarded to individuals, and/or teams, that best exemplify the positive efforts of helping their fellow competitors during this race. It is the hope that everyone who has signed up for the race can help out whoever and wherever they can; while it is not mandatory that you do help, extra points will be given to those people/teams who show the Lei Feng spirit and lend a helping hand to their comrades. Each night after all the stories have been heard a selected committee will determine who receives these coveted, and highly regarded, points.

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Photo Album

During the Tour it is very important that we get as much film footage and still photography as possible. Some of the most interesting photo ops, no doubt, will come when no one but you and your teammates are around. So, every team should have as many cameras as they can bear to bring.

To encourage each team to take pictures along the way, there’s nothing like a little competition. Each team will be responsible for submitting five photographs from any of the six themes outlined below to the official photographer of the Tour de Dandong, Hubert Wong. They should be the “best” photographs each team has to offer.

1) “Yard Sale”
2) “Spare Parts”
3) “Pengyou”
4) “On Purpose”
5) “By Accident”
6) “Never Better”

Check Points

For Days 2 and 3 of the race there will be a halfway check point (cha bu duo) that all teams must adhere to. The location will be designated by the Marshall each day; once the location is established he will then contact each team captain by text message and give the name of the location, it will then be each team’s responsibility to figure out how to get there - no other clues will be given. This will prove to be a logistical challenge for each team to solve, and once the location/restaurant is found all teams will then have to stay a minimum of one hour before setting out again.

Traffic

One thing Chinese traffic is not noted for is its courteous and logical nature, and it is absolutely imperative that all members of this race take care of themselves while out on the road. The country roads should prove to be somewhat desolate, but the 201 will have traffic to deal with – even though there is plenty of shoulder space. Please gents, take care while out there riding!

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Massoud

Massoud was a key force in organizing this race and I want to ensure his presence is honored with us as we ride. Anne has graciously allowed us to borrow a very important banner of Massoud’s and I would like to see us all share in taking it up to Dandong. My idea is to have each rider share in this duty and help give Massoud one last ride – you know that he will love it!

The Dragons Speech

I was given this speech the first time I went on an Ice Dragons hockey trip and I am going to reiterate it to all of those who have never heard it – because its message is vital on this journey and it is very important that we follow its principles on this trip:

We are to go on this journey and have a lot of fun and do our very best to engage with the Chinese people to the best of our ability. Any and all contact done with the Chinese should be done in a respectful and courteous manner, and it is the expectation that all members of this race represent themselves with a certain element of class.

This point became abundantly clear when negotiating with the families for our second night’s festivities. There was serious concern and trepidation in allowing 25 foreigners into their homes – and seriously, how can you blame them. But through the wonderful tactics of Jinzhou Leon he was able to convince this small community that what we are doing is a great idea and that we are all good people who simply want to share an evening with them; which they have now fully embraced this idea and are eagerly carrying out the duties for what should be a memorable night. I feel it is very important to understand this point and show our respect and appreciation to them by trying your best to talk with them, share a drink or two and be as courteous and respectful as we can be.

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Bike Repairs

During the Tour de Dandong there will be 2 traveling mechanics available to all riders involved; however, this system is flawed somewhat and may require alternative solutions depending on the severity of your problem – in short, don’t expect them to be at your beckoning call while on the road. Both mechanics will be situated in one vehicle and will both help when needed, but if they are busy with another team they will not be able to get to the next situation until the one they are working on is resolved – and then they will have to find you. This could mean you may have to wait an hour or so to get your bike looked at by one of our mechanics; so while the option is there, it could take awhile.

There are countless number of villages that we will pass through on our way up and all of them had places right along the highway that looked like they could help fix a bike and/or motor – so this could be your better option while the race is in progress.

The mechanics main duties will be to tune up the bikes each and every night to ensure that they are in top form for each new day.

Camera Crew

As stated before, we will be having a two-unit camera crew follow our entire destination up to Dandong. I and Jinzhou Leon have met with these guys several times and have come up with several ideas/angles that will be worked into the finished product. While it will take many months to complete this product after we are done, here are some of the key themes we will be working on during our ride:

- The race itself and the stories from the road.
- Massoud’s story.
- The essence of bikes and there importance to the everyday Chinese person.
- Historical context of the five bicycle companies.

I want everyone to do their part in helping create this documentary and please do everything you can to participate. You are all the stars of the show and will be the main focus of what drives this film forward. I ask all of us to try and be on our best behavior and do your best to watch the language as much as possible while being filmed; be yourself but just remember that people will be watching this. Again, I do not want to sound restricting but it would be nice to have footage that can be viewed by a wide range of viewers.

One aspect that I think will be most interesting, and entertaining, will be our dialogues with the Chinese people. For the most part, all of us struggle with the Chinese language but I want to urge us to not allow that to restrict you if/when the camera is filming you – because this (in my opinion) is the charm of our story. We all need to put our vanity aside and show a little humility amongst ourselves for the good of the film. It is not our intention to make asses out of people, but there is no question our conversations on the road will be the hidden gems.